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Dave Sweet and Buzzy Trent at Malibu
 

First in Foam:
The evolution of the surfboard from wood to foam
By Mark Fragale

page 2

On what was one otherwise regular day at the beach, Sweet was shown a block of foam by a friend. Sweet was hit hard with this first impression of the material. Some say he became obsessed with foam and began to focus on the successful application of the new material to surfboards. Sweet became a pioneer of sorts, the research and development point man in the transition from wood to foam.

Initially, Sweet began to experiment with Styrofoam although he wasn't the first to do so. Several before him had done the same including Joe Quigg, Pete Peterson, Bob Simmons and certainly others. What separated Sweet's work from his contemporaries and those before him was his fortitude and commitment. Innately, he foresaw the unlimited potential of this new material called foam, and dedicated himself to the concept.

It was sometime around 1953 that Sweet first ordered an extruded piece of Styrofoam. He found it in far away Midland, Michigan at Dow Chemical. Says Sweet, 'The material was just incredibly dense and seemingly absent of beads. It was more like a piece of lumber than a piece of foam." Laying down a template, then cutting the outline with a saber saw caused the foam to gum up and melt. Undeterred, Sweet hand-shaped the brick-like slab into a period design shape, then sealed it with a red epoxy coating. In clandestine surf sessions he rode the board that winter at Rincon, and later Malibu, the whole time covertly testing the foam contrivance under its disguise of color. Preliminary water tests confirmed conclusively that the finished foam board had very real possibilities.

In 1954, Sweet discovered the existence of a new and superior foam called polyurethane. Sweet refers to urethane as 'the new miracle material." Unlike Styrofoam, urethane was compatible with polyester resin. This new foam successfully allowed a fiberglass lamination and seal. The problem was, formulating the stuff was no easy deal. Not even his supplier at Nopco Chemical knew how to use or mix it. Consequently, embarking on this new frontier devoid of any tutelage only added to the mystery and confusion. Sweet embraced the challenge. Alone and intrepid, he built his own mold and stepped into the great unknown.

A tedious trial and error process followed in an intense and expensive learning curve. Gaining the knowledge of how to mix and pour the foam, clamp the mold securely shut within seconds and strive to avoid air pockets was no easy feat. Liquid urethane foam components were mixed together for about 8-10 seconds and then poured into the mold. Moments later the mix expanded to approximately 20, maybe 30, times its volume. Almost instantly the concoction yielded extreme heat and dangerous pressures.

Sweet quickly learned that foam blown at lower pressures lacked stability in real world conditions such as those encountered at the beach. Heat and ultraviolet exposure caused poorly formulated foam within a fiberglass lamination to continue its expansion, causing distortion, delamination and eventual structural failure. The odyssey to properly formulate the liquid urethane continued with no easily found solutions. Resolute in his determination to succeed, his quest continued.

It was about this time that Sweet moved out of his parents home. Six months earlier he had been honorably discharged from the Navy. His time in the Navy was brief at best. With a degree from USC in Business and Real Estate to his credit, aptitude tests slated Sweet to be assigned for training as an aviator. Says Sweet, "I made it exceedingly clear to those in charge that there was no way they were going to get me to fly an airplane. I didn't even want to be a passenger in one. I had joined the navy to avoid being drafted into the Army. Now I was in real trouble. Thankfully, someone there must have understood as I was quickly commissioned to be a seaman apprentice, which in Naval terms made me a 'nothing' until they could find something else for me to do. During this whole crazy affair I contracted double pneumonia and got pretty sick. Pneumonia was mighty serious stuff back then and the Navy elected to discharge me. My bout with pneumonia left me with 4F status."

Sweet goes on to add, "After my discharge from the service I returned home. After several months passed my parents kicked me out. No, let me rephrase this, they politely told me to leave. They figured it was time for me to go. I'm not sure why they chose that particular moment to do so, but in their infinite wisdom it was in my very best interest that they did. Maybe I was just too comfortable there. After my stint with the Navy it was indeed time. They gave me a warm and caring nudge out the door and I was off on my own. Whatever the case, under any circumstances, I did not want to live in an apartment."

"I was lucky enough to stumble into a boarding house on the corner of Franklin and La Brea in Hollywood. What a deal that place was. For $65 a month I got room and board in this beautiful, one-hundred-year-old Victorian house. With my living expenses covered I used whatever money I had left to continue my work toward building a surfboard with a core made of foam."

Sweet continues, "My room at the boarding house was set up in the basement. For my purposes this was the best room in the house. The only shortfall was the waterfall. Every time somebody flushed the toilet it would sound like I was going to be washed away. My landlady, Ms. Smith, was a saint. She was a great cook and prepared all the meals. I can still remember her prime rib and mashed potatoes. She actually allowed me to move my mold in and do foam pours with the confines of my subterranean living quarters. Imagine that! Often I would come upstairs for dinner only long enough to eat then quickly return downstairs to continue with my work foaming. Three other guys were boarding in as well, all engineers at Hughes Aircraft.

"At this point I had gained considerable knowledge about the foam process and posed little danger to others in the house, not to mention myself. I was determined to make things work and money was the most essential ingredient to continue moving forward. Initially I had been purchasing materials in small amounts, so a few pours might set me back as much as 20 bucks-quite- a bit of money in those days. Money was hard fought, which forced me to confront a series of challenging decisions. I went to the extreme and sold my new car. In actuality this turned out to be a very positive move. I purchased an old Dodge station wagon that was clearly better suited for my new situation. The added bonus: I was once again capitalized to continue; I was ready to build surfboards."

Continued...
 
 
Early wood boards
 
Early foam boards
 
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